Planting Trees & Shrubs

For best results, plan to get major planting done during the months of April, through to September/October.   This gives roots a chance to get established before the plants enter a more vigorous growth phase, and before the stresses of the drying summer months come into play.

In more coastal zones, on lighter sandy soils, autumn planting is advisable as long as species being planted are not too frost sensitive.   These areas are prone to drying out earlier in the spring/summer than sites further inland. Putting sphagnum moss under the root ball can help with water retention.

Note:   The above is applicable particularly to plantings reliant on natural precipitation (rainfall). Where irrigation is planned, or can be offered in the event of unexpected dry weather, then planting can take place over a broader time span.   Just remember, as a general rule of thumb, mid summer heat and transplanting do not go together – even with irrigation. So if you do decide to plant in the summer do it during cooler parts of day.

It is important to plant the best shelter for your situation, also taking into account ongoing maintenance costs.  

Some areas will have to take into consideration frost factors for a number of plants. When buying plants ask nursery staff to what degree of hardiness to frost the plants have. Although there are many plants that may be able to withstand a good frost, they won’t like a total freeze as you would be experienced in some areas of New Zealand predictably each year. Out of season frosts are hard to predict and can also affect plant establishment.

Yes!

Pre-planting site preparation is most beneficial.  Ensure you have your planting site as free of weeds or other competitive growth as possible.

Glyphosate herbicides (e.g. Roundup^TM ) or other non-residual weed control sprays can be used right up until the day of planting, but best results will be achieved if the site has been sprayed at least 2-3 weeks before planting. This will also make the physical work of planting easier. The alternative if you don’t like using sprays is ‘blanking out’, chipping off the top layer to expose the soil beneath in a square approximately 50cm x 50cm. This is good for individual plants but for a larger area it may involve more work to prepare for planting.

• Dig a hole which will give enough room to allow the roots of the plant to be spread out evenly without touching the sides of the hole (about twice the size of the root ball).
• In heavy or clay soils, hole width is more important than depth.  
• If plants are tight around the roots when coming from a planter bag, it is generally a good idea to loosen the root ball and trim any very long roots back to avoid them circling.
• Ensure the hole has adequate drainage.
• On wet sites mound the tree up above the existing soil level.
• If introducing new soil, compost or a planting mix ensure it is well mixed with the existing soil from the site. 
• If adding fertiliser make sure it is well mixed in with the soil that is going back into the hole and not put in a pile at the bottom.
• Firm soil well around roots, without ramming so tight that root damage may occur.
• Backfill to depth, just above the depth at which the tree was growing in the nursery. This will allow for subsequent natural consolidation.
• After planting make sure soil is firmly packed to avoid plant movement or rocking which will inhibit new root development.
• Water regularly during establishment period and subsequent dry spells. Remember not to overwater. In dryer areas sphagnum moss products can be used to retain moisture around root ball.
• Mulching around the plant with a bark mulch 100mm thick will help with moisture retention and help keep down competing weeds. Be careful not to push directly up to main stem of the plant as it can cause rot.
• After heavy winds check newly planted stock and firm up if necessary.

• Dig a hole which will give enough room to allow the roots of the plant to be spread out evenly without touching the sides of the hole (about twice the size of the root ball).
• In heavy or clay soils, hole width is more important than depth.  
• If plants are tight around the roots when coming from a planter bag, it is generally a good idea to loosen the root ball and trim any very long roots back to avoid them circling.
• Ensure the hole has adequate drainage.
• On wet sites mound the tree up above the existing soil level.
• If introducing new soil, compost or a planting mix ensure it is well mixed with the existing soil from the site. 
• If adding fertiliser make sure it is well mixed in with the soil that is going back into the hole and not put in a pile at the bottom.
• Firm soil well around roots, without ramming so tight that root damage may occur.
• Backfill to depth, just above the depth at which the tree was growing in the nursery. This will allow for subsequent natural consolidation.
• After planting make sure soil is firmly packed to avoid plant movement or rocking which will inhibit new root development.
• Water regularly during establishment period and subsequent dry spells. Remember not to overwater. In dryer areas sphagnum moss products can be used to retain moisture around root ball.
• Mulching around the plant with a bark mulch 100mm thick will help with moisture retention and help keep down competing weeds. Be careful not to push directly up to main stem of the plant as it can cause rot.
• After heavy winds check newly planted stock and firm up if necessary.

Staking is not always necessary, however if you are unsure, our nursery staff can advise you which species may need staking.